Santa Cruz Church Bangkok: Portuguese Heritage and Kudeejeen Cakes
The Portuguese community that settled in Siam left two lasting marks in Bangkok: a church and a cake. Both remain visible today in the historic Kudeejeen neighbourhood.
Origins of the Portuguese Community in Bangkok
Portugal was the first European nation officially allowed to settle freely in the Kingdom of Siam. Arriving in the 17th century to establish a trading post, the Portuguese left several cultural traces in the capital. Some have vanished, while others remain.
In Thonburi, two elements clearly embody this legacy: a Catholic church and local pastries now emblematic of Kudeejeen.
Santa Cruz Church: A Historic Landmark on the Chao Phraya
The first Santa Cruz Church was built after the Portuguese supported King Taksin during the reconquest of Ayutthaya in 1767. In gratitude, the king granted them a concession on the west bank of the Chao Phraya on 14 September, the feast of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross — Santa Cruz in Portuguese.
- First construction: 1770
- Destroyed by fire: 1883
- Current reconstruction: 1916
The church visitors see today dates from 1916, easily identified by its pink dome and bell tower rising above Kudeejeen.
Kudeejeen Cakes: The Other Portuguese Legacy
Alongside the church, the neighbourhood preserves a culinary tradition inherited from the Portuguese presence: Kudeejeen cakes, soft sponge-like pastries linked to old Lusophone recipes.
Often topped with a few raisins, these cakes are still baked daily in small family shops around Santa Cruz Square. Their light sweetness pairs well with custard, jam, or local desserts.
Address:
Santa Cruz Church - 112 Soi Kudeejeen, Wat Kanlaya, Thon Buri, Bangkok 10600
How to get there:
- By boat: Tha Rajinee pier (N7), then cross by ferry (5 baht).
- By MRT: Itsaraphap Station → taxi, motorbike taxi, or 1.4 km walk.
Religious Coexistence Along the Chao Phraya
Kudeejeen offers a unique example of religious coexistence in Bangkok. Within a small area stand a Catholic church, a mosque, and several Buddhist and Chinese shrines. This proximity reflects an old pattern of community organisation along the Chao Phraya: each group maintains its own practices while sharing daily spaces for work, trade, and social life.
This configuration has shaped a social landscape where rituals coexist without apparent hierarchy, and where everyday exchanges encouraged mutual adaptation. Santa Cruz Church is part of this broader religious ensemble, showing how maritime routes and migrations structured the west bank of the river.
FAQ — Santa Cruz Church & Kudeejeen District
Can visitors enter Santa Cruz Church?
Yes, outside mass times. Visitors are welcome but modest clothing is required.
Is Kudeejeen easy to reach?
Yes. The ferry crossing from Tha Rajinee is the simplest option.
Where can I buy Kudeejeen cakes?
Around Santa Cruz Square, in small family-run shops that preserve the traditional recipe.
Does the Portuguese community still exist today?
There is no active community, but the neighbourhood retains a strong identity shaped by this heritage.
Learn More About Christian Heritage in Bangkok
What to See Around Santa Cruz Church
The neighbourhood offers several interesting sites to explore, all within walking distance.
Baan Kudichin Museum
A small community museum dedicated to local history and the Portuguese families who settled here. It provides a simple presentation of daily life, religion, and exchanges with Thai and Chinese neighbours.
Wat Kalayanamit
A large riverside Buddhist temple known for its monumental seated Buddha. It is an important site of Thai religious practice and a classic stop when visiting Thonburi.
Memorial Bridge
A steel bridge inaugurated in 1932, symbol of Thailand’s constitutional era. The view of the river and both banks is especially pleasant at the end of the day.
Pak Khlong Talat Market
Bangkok’s 24-hour flower market, lively with merchants, delivery workers, and floral artisans. A great stop to understand the rhythms of the riverside economy.
